Surfing

My 5 Steps On Learning To Surf

partner surfing

Last year after some deep meditation and visions. I've wanted to surf! Didn't know how I would do this, but knew it needed to be done.

Step 1 - Learn To Swim
As a grown man I had to fight my ego, swallow my pride & take swimming lessons. It's a skill I just never learned as a kid. But I love the water, weather it's chilling out in a boat with friends, going kayaking with Laura or just sitting and watching a still river or waves crashing in the ocean. Even now with our home I made sure we had a river view in London.

Step 2 - Find A Surf School
Like everything in our life lately - people and things cross paths with us at just the right time. With a Airbnb 5 mins from the beach in Porto we had a great location, an easy walk up 1 street and we were at the beach. At the end of that walk was a surf school just as the beach started. A quick talk with Markos and I was signed up for the next day 11am.

Step 3 - Get In The Water
Show up 10 mins early get changed and wet suit on. Pick up our board and off to the water. After a quick warm up and some tips on the beach, in we went. Just like the swim lessons I had to fight my ego, in my head I could do this already no problem. But after the 5th failed attempt at standing up I realized it looked a lot easier than it is. There comes a point where I need to become vulnerable and surrender to the process.

Step 4 - Stand Up
Numerous attempts and crash falls later I finally found success. Although short lived, I now knew what it felt like to ride a wave, and I was instantly hooked!! I was telling Laura it's just like golf, once you know what a perfect shot feels like you spend the rest of the time chasing it. Which seems easy since you did it once you must be able to do it again but proves to be quite frustrating at the beginning.

Step 5 - Keep Practicing
I wrote this sitting in the sun after the first session but already have my next session booked for tomorrow at the same time. After reflecting back on what happened I'm even more excited to keep working and improving.

Although short lived my wave riding experience can't be described with words. The freedom I felt was magical & I can't wait to get back at it tomorrow.

With all that being said I'm so glad that I put my ego aside and didn't listen to all the negative self talk. Which is no easy thing to do, but with the right tools and following a process I did it. Now I get to reap the rewards.

Surfs up Dude!!

- Michael